Ortisei, italy
Living like a local goes hand-in-hand with hiking like a local in this Alpine town in Northern Italy’s
Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site of stunning limestone peaks, sheer cliffs, and jaw-dropping high-altitude meadows.
Ortisei (pronounced OR-tee-zay) is the largest of three villages nestled in the Val Gardena region of the Dolomites, not far from the Austrian border. It offers plenty of interesting shops, restaurants, cultural sites and apartment rentals, along with a unique German/Italian vibe.
A funicular and several nearby ski lifts provide access to spectacular mountain trails suitable for hikers of all abilities, while another lift across the valley whisks hikers up into Europe’s largest high Alpine meadow.
After the snow melts, this ski destination transforms into a welcoming place for peaceful strolls, cultural exhibits and pleasant outdoor cafes, with the enchanting Dolomite landscape at your doorstep.
From Milan’s main station (Milano Centrale), you will first take a 3-hour train trip to Bolzano, the capital of the province. From there it’s a 40-minute bus ride to Ortisei.
A good strategy is to spend a day or two in Milan to visit da Vinci’s The Last Supper and enjoy the iconic Duomo, before undertaking the final leg of the journey.
Renting a car is an option to get around the Val Gardena region, but to keep traffic to a minimum on the narrow winding roads, free bus passes are provided to all visitors.
One Place, Three Languages
After WWI, parts of Austria and their German-speaking inhabitants came under control of Italy. Although towns and mountains were then given Italian names, the original German/Austrian names are still recognized. Ortisei, for example, is known as St. Ulrich to German speakers, and is located in Italy’s South Tyrol province (Sudtirol in German and Alto Adige in Italian).
Consequently, both Italian and German are official languages of the area, with some residents speaking Ladin, the local dialect. You will therefore see some signs in three languages, but will happily encounter Italian coffee, pizza and gelato, along with German beer, sausages and apple strudel!
A Paradise for Hikers with the Aid of a Few Lifts
First came the collision of the African and European tectonic plates. Then, volcanic eruptions and the erosive forces of ice, wind and rain sculpted mountains of limestone and sedimentary rock into the characteristic rock faces, spires, towers and pinnacles of the Dolomites.
A gondola or ski lift will conveniently drop you at one of the numerous trailheads in the Puez-Geisler Nature Park, where you will soon discover why the area was chosen as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Once on the trail, look for modern huts called refugios (“refuges”) which are placed at strategic locations. They offer food and drinks, and are great places to rest your feet while enjoying the scenery.
An Awesome Alpine Meadow Known by Three Names
At 22 square miles, the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm in German or Mont Seuc in Ladin) is the largest high Alpine meadow in Europe. This rolling terrain, reached by lift from across the valley in Ortisei, features an abundance of hiking and biking trails, is relatively car free, and comes with breathtaking views in all directions.
Our Experience
- In addition to the three languages mentioned above, many residents and shop owners speak English. The friendly woman who rented us our apartment, however, spoke mainly Ladin, the local dialect, but her daughter and husband were always close by if we needed a translation.
- We purchased the 6-day Gardena Card which was a good value for the many lifts throughout the valley. We also took advantage of the free bus pass given to all visitors so we could access additional trailheads and towns in the area.
- During our first hike through the high meadow of the Alpe di Siusi, we watched as a small cloud slowly came our way, then engulfed us in a windy and drenching downpour. By the time we returned to town and dried off, the sun had come out, so we headed to our favorite outdoor cafe to toast a new adventure.
- Coincidentally, the authors of the guidebook Walking in Italy’s Val Gardena were staying at an adjacent apartment in our chalet. We soon became friends, and their shared knowledge of the area made our trip even more enjoyable.
Our Live-Like-a-Local Criteria Rating:
We hope one day you get to “live like a local” in this town or another one like it.
For more on Ortisei, go here.